I recently bought a plaster plaque that appealed to me for its Neoclassic look (and very reasonable price tag).
The oval is approximately 26 inches across and 22 inches high, a fairly large piece. Though cupids can verge on kitch, this has an authentically classic feel, with nice details, like those grape tendrils.
The plaster has been silver-leafed, and though it looks pretty good against that dusty blue, in person it looks more as though it might have been sprayed with radiator paint! I think the shine cheapens the appearance, and that it would actually look better with a dull black finish, transforming it into a faux Wedgewood basalt.
So my question to you is, do you think the silver leaf needs to be removed first, and how would that be done without damaging the plaster? I appreciate my readers' expertise and any other ideas they — you — might have for refinishing this recent find!
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Yes, it should be removed if it meets the criteria below.
ReplyDeleteThe silver paint will likely continue to flake off and if you paint over the silver without removing it, your new basalt color will come away from the object as well.
There a various "recipes" for the manufacturing of plaster. Difficult to tell what you have.
Is the item "chalky" when you touch an area where the paint has flaked off?
If not, you may consider soaking the item in paint remover in a shallow glass bowl. The plaster will absorb some of the remover and smell like paint remover for a while. Air the item out for several days and/or place in a container of kitty litter for a day or two.
If the item is chalky, you may just have to paint over the old paint for it will be too fragile to soak.
The plaster will not fit into a shallow glass bowl because it is 26" x 22", but I'm sure I could find an appropriate container for soaking it (it's not chalky, by the way). I really like your idea of placing it in kitty litter to absorb fumes and smells - very clever! Thanks.
DeleteIt's a very decent piece. Do you know what its natural colour is? No wisdom to impart about removal of the silvered effect, but I've no doubt one of our clever friends will tell you. But either the natural, or indeed your idea of basalt, would work.
ReplyDeleteThe plaque's natural color is the white of plaster. I'm glad you like the basalt idea - I'm thinking of Mr. Wedgewood, of course.
DeleteHello Mark:
ReplyDeleteSorry to say that we have absolutely no experience of restoring such a delicate piece and do wish you well in securing good advice. The plaster plaque is most attractive and, if it were ours [which, sadly it is not]we should rather it stayed exactly as it was rather than suffering fatally at the hands of unprofessional treatment.
We look forward to future progress reports!!
Hello, Jane and Lance:
DeleteI have no hesitation about sacrificing an article to achieve what is in my mind's eye, but something tells me that by the time all the comments are posted, I'll have very professional advice from which to proceed! I'll keep you posted.
I'd be tempted to try a superfine steel wool to dull the shine. I'm also wondering if some oxidizing agent would tarnish the silver (if it's real). I'd test on the edges. But tread lightly; they're all scary propositions.
ReplyDeleteHi, Steve - I will take your advice to tread lightly (the voice of experience, I know), but I'm really over the silver.
DeleteHello Mark
ReplyDeleteIt is a beautiful and interesting piece. What effect would you like to have? Not knowing how to strip plaster, if it were mine, I would do a muted warm grey thin wash with ochre and sienna undertones, starting with a very thin wash and repeating till desired effect is achieved. Rub on/rub off type of painting - you may also consider gilding in areas
Hope this helps
Helen
Hello, Helen,
DeleteAs I envision your suggestion, I'm seeing something closer to a terracotta. Wouldn't that look fantastic on a brown wall (I have some brown walls)! Thanks for your suggestion!
Dear Mark,
ReplyDeleteWhat an interesting object! The casting is so crisp-- I love the neoclassical profiles on the putti and the very sharp curves on the clouds/waves...they almost look Japanese in style, don't they? I agree that in matte black, this would be more interesting. I'd guess that after going over the piece with a bit of fine steel wool to clean off any oils or sizing that would prevent the paint from sticking, you could paint directly over the silver leaf...
I'm also reminded of an artist colleague who made plaster casts and then coated them with many coats of powdered graphite rubbed on with a cloth-- the pieces ended up looking like they were solid graphite--so interesting and beautiful... I've often thought a collection of Roman emperor busts treated in this way would be fantastic presiding over our library shelves...
Have fun with your project-- please let us know how it turns out!!!
Warm regards,
Erika
Dear Erika,
DeleteI see those clouds as being reminiscent of Art Deco, and the plaque could probably live happily in an Art Deco room, silvered as it currently is.
The process of rubbing graphite onto plaster and getting the effect you describe is brilliant, and it reminds me of the work of Agelio Batle, who in fact is making graphite sculptured writing implements.
I love your idea of the busts in the library. I could also see them between a door's broken pediment.
Best wishes, Mark
Hello Mark, Congratulations on your new acquisition. I agree that the black would look stunning, but since silver is the original finish, and it looks in good condition, I would hesitate before removing it--perhaps you could live with it for a bit, or model it where you think it might go. The silver does have a Deco feel about it. The most important thing is to preserve the crispness of the details, but since this is a Ruffner project, I have no qualms in that direction.
ReplyDelete--Road to Parnassus
Hello, Jim - Thanks for the vote of confidence! Living with this for a while is sage advice, and I will do so. I generally don't jump into projects; some of the things I've done around the house have fermented in my mind for years.
DeleteRosemary, of Where Five Valleys Meet, emailed:
ReplyDeleteDear Mark,
The plaque looks fine on the photo image, but when you mention that it appears to have been sprayed with radiator paint I can visualise it being harsher looking than shown.
The cupids are lovely, suitably tubby with a touch of 'art nouveau' cloud formation.
I think that a Wedgewood black basalt look would suit admirably.
How about Annie Sloan's graphite chalk paint. No removal of the silver is required with her paint. Best to try the back first of course. The paint is fairly expensive, but I would think that you could do the plaque with a tester pot (trial) size.
http://www.anniesloan.com/acatalog/Graphite.html
All the best,
Rosemary
Thanks for the link, Rosemary — I'll check it out!
DeleteMark again, Rosemary - this could certainly be the way to go, and I notice there's an outlet in Tampa, Florida. Thanks again for an interesting link - I'll be looking further into Annie Sloan's paint in any event.
DeleteDear Mark, How do you feel about verdigris? I would first use very fine steel wool to loosen the flaky parts. A very good 2-step verdigris treatment is available in most craft stores. You can control the amount of acid to copper ratio by repeatedly applying the product. It will continue to change color for some time. I have posted a how to here http://ginaceramics.blogspot.com/2009/09/verdigris.html
ReplyDeleteDear Gina, I just revisited your posting on verdigris, and that would certainly be an interesting alternative, especially as the plaque might grace an outdoor seating area. Thanks for the suggestion!
DeleteNot sure how to get there but definitely agree it needs to be a flat black - don't forget to show us the results!
ReplyDeleteHi, Stefan - Thanks for your vote in favor of my original idea. I think the flat black would certainly call more attention to the design and detail, as would a flat terracotta.
DeleteDear Mark,
ReplyDeleteFirstly I love the look of this plaque and the almost Regency looking cherubs with their junior versions of ancient Grecian noses.
Secondly I have no idea about how to clean the silver off although if it is flaking then AGA's suggestion is to give it a good going over with a soft toothbrush to remove all loose fragments, and provide a firm foundation for whatever treatment you decide upon.
Thirdly, call me old fashioned but I think painting it an ivory colour might look rather nice. Either that or the terra-cotta look that Helen suggests. That would give it a very Renaissance look.
I shall be interested to see how it all goes.
I love a good restoration project!
Kirk
Dear Kirk,
DeleteAnother great color, and I don't think ivory for this piece would be at all old-fashioned (provided I achieve a flat color). I'm starting to see a procedure emerging — superfine steel wool, toothbrush, repeat and then perhaps paint.
I agree with others who say live with it for a while before you decide what to do
ReplyDeleteIt's an interesting mixture of styles..like you say the art deco clouds.. I do like the classical elements .
Hasnt that cherub got a flat profile , I wonder where it was made ?
Hello, smr,
DeleteI have no idea where this was made, but as I look at the more delicate details and then the rather dramatic, deep dimensionality of the legs, I think it was well done.
Hi Mark,
ReplyDeleteWow, so much wisdom here. I hesitated when you first posted this and now you've got a full comments section.
I've always loved the basalt Wedgwood collection at the Huntington and think that's a great way to go. Me, I wouldn't strip it. What a messy process that is. There are primers that will allow you to go from an oil based finish to a water based one but it may not even be necessary. The adhesive quality of acrylic mediums is so advanced these days. I always use water based materials. I would make a paint out of an acrylic medium and powered pigments, some graphite perhaps, some powdered charcoal, black, and diatomacious earth for the flattest possible finish. Douglas and Sturgess is my source.
http://www.douglasandsturgess.com/
Hi, Scott - I appreciate your input because I know you have a lot of experience in paint techniques. We're on the same page with water-based materials (I've gone through endlessly flaking ceilings, for one thing). Thanks for the link; I'll give it a study!
Deletegreat recipe, Scott!
DeleteHi, Mark - I hope you are well! Love your new acquisition. I quite like the finish as-is. If you want it black like basalt ware, I'd use spray paint for an even matte finish. Removing the silver paint could damage the plaster. Enjoy your treasure!
ReplyDeleteLoi
Hi, Loi - The finish as is would look great with those Gustavian antiques at your place! If I do go in the basalt direction, I agree that spray paint would insure a smooth finish. I'll be reporting back at a later date . . .
DeleteIf it's silver leaf, it would be microscopically thin, and you can probably buff-off most of it with fine steel wool (super fine #0000), and soft brass brushes. If it's paint, then you can probably just prime it and paint over it. If you want a very smooth, even finish, I'd suggest using light coats of spray paint. If you want a more uneven painted look, then a brush would work fine.
ReplyDeleteHi, JC - Thanks for the #0000 and brass brushes info. I'm appreciating all the blogging advice — my direction is forming and being refined!
DeleteHello Mark,
ReplyDeleteI love your new acquisition and I completely agree with you about his classic look. I would just paint on the silver painting with primer and afterwards with paint in the color you want. If you wish to give more depth you can put a little wax on it.
Greetings
XX
Jérôme
Hello, Jérôme,
DeleteWax! I hadn't thought of that. What an interesting idea, which takes me in a whole new direction. Thanks!
As someone who deals with this almost daily...I would never try to strip or remove the silver leaf. As Gina said, maybe use #000 steelwool to remove anything unstable. The basalt would be nice. :) I would also use something like Farrow and Ball emulsion or Annie Sloan chalk paint for the flat, dusty black and then, maybe some rottenstone lightly dusted in the crevices. Good luck sorting through all of these comments!
ReplyDeleteI appreciate your expertise, Theresa, because I do know you deal with this sort of project often! The concensus seems to be for the fine steel wool. Thanks for the input!
DeleteThanks to all my blogging friends for your good suggestions. I'll let you know how it turns out.
ReplyDeleteHi Mark
ReplyDeleteI cannot believe no one has mentioned this but it's most certainly not silver leaf, it's aluminum, I can tell by its color and the shape and size of the leaf, as well as your description of its garish sheen. Clean it as much as you can with steel wool and denatured alcohol. If the size used was acrylic the alcohol will easily take it off. If not then it will clean the surface well. Prime it with something that will stick to problematic surfaces (like shellac, i.e. BIN) and paint it-- but me being a luddite I'd advise casein (black Plaka, or Shiva brand perhaps) as that will give you the super matte basalt finish you are looking for. Acrylic is really too glossy, even when it's matte. And I love Theresa's suggestion of using rottonstone to age it a touch.
Dear Lynne,
DeleteThank you, thank you for your reply! I would never have thought of aluminum, but it makes great sense now that you've mentioned it. I appreciate the advice of experience, and I knew I'd find it!